Monday 19 August 2013

Day 4 - Unimog to Gull Canyon

We slept in this morning. It did not feel as cold out, but in the night it was stormy and it snowed. We wake up to a beautiful dusting of snow all over the landscape. It completely changes the look of the place. I feel really lucky to experience this place at this time of year, the summer would have been a little warmer, but we are getting a small taste of what it is really like in the Arctic. We went into the dining hall for another delicious breakfast. Pancakes (with nuts and other yummy things), sausages, fresh fruit, porridge with dried fruit, fresh croissants and toast with an assortment of jams etc., and cereal and granola. Again, your favourite espresso drink is just a short request away. Tessum was eager to please and quickly learned your drink order.

After breakfast it was time for the days activities. We switch out with the group from the day before and head out on the Unimogs for Gull Canyon. The day is chilly. We climb into the backs of the Unimog and get dropped off at the bottom of a ridge and we climb all the way up to look down upon Gully Canyon. It is truly spectacular.

Richard is our guide today, along with his two sons Tessum and Nansen. While we had hiked up to the top of the canyon, Tessum and Nansen had driven the Unimogs down into the canyon to set up for lunch. Richard leads us along the edge of the canyon to a gentle slope that carries us down into the canyon. Along the canyon bed, is a small trickling creek. It can get very high in the spring time, but right now, it is calm and not very deep. We walk back and forth from one side of the creek to the other as we venture our way along the canyon.

It is truly spectacular. The rocks in the canyon are beautiful shades of red and orange and rust. There are birds and grassy green slopes dusted with snow. It is so amazingly quiet up here...its a bit unnerving at times, however it really gives you a sense of calm. There is no hustle and bustle, not street and cities noises...no people other than ourselves.

Lunch is another wonderful and hot soup served in the great molded bowls. Mushroom today with another great freshly made bread, cheese, dried sausages and finished up with coffee and tea. The canyon gives us quite a bit of shelter, and so its a warmer lunch today. Generally I'd say we had a great day for weather.

After lunch we are off in the Unimogs to look for Musk Ox. We drive out of the canyon and out into the plains. We park the big trucks and spot two larger grouping off Musk Ox out in the distance. We decide to head for the smaller group which are somewhat closer to us. Again...these damn Muckboots are indispensable. We wade across small ponds and creeks and across mushy slushy grassland. My feet are toasty warm and my body too from all the walking.

We get relatively close to these amazing animals before we spook them and they tear off away from us. We can spot our pilots and flight attendant out across the plains. Hopefully they will get a good view of them as they charge away from us.

Along our walk, Nansen picks up what he believes to be a walrus penis. Who knew they had such large and heavy penis bones. I still have to google that one before I truly believe it. We do take it all the way back to camp with us.

Its a long walk back to the Unimog. Half of our group had not gone out after the Musk Ox, and they went out further in the Unimog. Our group heads for the lodge. Its a very chilly ride home and we can't wait for a hot shower. The rest of our group heads back in a bit later and they had actually come across a Musk Ox skull. A truly cool find.

The showers are hot and wonderful, and then its back to the main lodge for reading and playing games, cards and ping pong etc.

Dinner is another great feast. Tonight is chicken with gravy, a kale salad with peppers, beautifully broiled cauliflower, a nice rice and some kind of lentil dish, and a green salad. For dessert its a delicious coffee cake with blueberries, topped with whipped cream and fresh mint...and of course a coffee. Tonight I have a cafe au lait which I learn is a bit better than a latte as it has more coffee and less foam!

Back to the main hall for more lounging, a final round of charades and then to bed. The water pipes had frozen the night before, so Arctic Watch ask us to finish up with the water by 9pm so that they can drain them in hopes of avoiding a total freeze out in the morning.

We fill our hot water bottles and head for bed. Sleep doesn't come as easily tonight...and its a bit cooler. Morning comes not quickly enough...and then too quickly. I have no idea how long it takes to get used to sleeping in the north...but I have certainly not mastered it in 3 nights.

 

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